France’s Lyons-la-Forêt to Les Andelys: A scenic Norman escape

Lyons-la-Forêt and Les Andelys are two of Normandy’s many beautiful villages, each with a deeply rooted Norman soul and a history that intertwines effortlessly with its landscape.

Lyons-la-Forêt, listed among the Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most beautiful villages of France), resembles a living postcard, lying deep within the Forêt de Lyons, and was once favoured by the dukes of Normandy and later by French kings.

Nature’s serene pathways

As I strolled through the peaceful village square, lined with soft cream- and rose-colored half-timbered houses, I could almost hear the echoes of its aristocratic past. The elegant 17th-century covered market hall anchors village life, just as it has for generations. Cafés spill onto the cobblestones, locals greet one another by name while carrying their baguettes, and time seems to slow. The surrounding foggy forest, carpeted with golden leaves, fills the chilly autumn air with the scent of damp wood and apples.

Afterward, we headed to Les Andelys, and the drive from Lyons-la-Forêt was magnificent—passing through the serene Forêt de Lyons, where tall beech trees, their leaves a blaze of golden yellow and orange, lined the road. The forest gradually gave way to open countryside before descending into the Seine Valley, unveiling the dramatic chalk cliffs of Les Andelys.

Layers of history

Towering above the town are the ruins of Chateau Gaillard, built in the late 12th century by Richard the Lionheart to guard the Norman frontier. We enjoyed exploring the chateau ruins, admiring the stonework remnants as morning sunlight streamed through what once were windows. The view of the serpentine Seine and the view of the town below is breathtaking and at the same time explains the reason why Richard the Lionheart chose this strategic site.

Descending from the heights of the chateau, we visited the Collégiale Notre-Dame, built on the site of an abbey founded as early as 511. Upon entering, I felt the layers of history unfold—from Merovingian beginnings to Gothic ambition and Renaissance artistry. The 16th-century stained-glass windows, which are among the finest, illuminate the nave beautifully as sunlight pours through the glass, bathing the church’s interior in color. 

Normandy’s timeless charm

From forest-wrapped tranquility to river-carved drama, these two villages capture the many faces of Normandy—a region where nature and history are inseparable, and where even a simple foggy autumn day feels rich with stories. Normandy never disappoints.

About The Author

Aissa Malinao-Richard

See author's posts